CLOSE TO PARADISE
Cuyabeno is a truly special place. It isn’t just beautiful and enjoyable – it’s fantastic! The area is still so unspoilt and rich that it feels like travelling back in time. It offers a unique glimpse of what the whole Earth must have been like before humans became so numerous, took over the planet and felt like lords and masters of the Earth.
I visited Cuyabeno five times over 25 years ago. At the time, I was working there as a biologist and tour guide for the Dutch walking organisation SNP Natuurreizen. I immediately felt a strong connection with nature. And a deep respect. I was amazed, surprised, delighted, overwhelmed, enchanted. This rainforest is magical.
"Respect for nature grows through truly experiencing it"
My life took a different turn. I no longer visited the tropics. But for years now, filled with cherished memories, I’ve been sharing my love of the jungle as a guide in the Netherlands with groups in the Bush, the enormous tropical hall at Burgers’ Zoo, a zoo that is also a botanical garden. Ecosystems are Burgers’ Zoo’s speciality. A wonderful alternative to jungles elsewhere in the world, here in Europe, a continent that has everything. Almost everything… except the tropics.
Yet Cuyabeno continued to hold a special appeal. One day, I would return there. And so it came to pass. In April 2026, I boarded the boat again with my 21-year-old son at ‘the bridge’. And he, too, was immediately struck by that magical feeling. To my great delight, the rainforest remained unchanged. The gigantic kapok tree from back then still stood untouched! It had probably grown even larger.
Time had not, however, stood completely still. Whereas back then we had ‘camped’ together on a large open floor, there are now several comfortable lodges available. Which one to choose?
We flew virtually, as if from a drone, using Google Earth over the bends of the winding Cuyabeno River. From above, Nicky Amazone Lodge looked the most appealing to us. Not too big – we like simplicity. The modest number of cabins around a central open area looked cosy.
It turned out to be a stroke of luck. Nicky Amazone is brilliant. Excellent service, lovely staff, and fantastic, friendly, professional guides. The rooms are spacious and fully equipped. The communal area was exactly what you need. The food was excellent, with that little bit extra: freshly baked bread rolls, a cool drink on arrival, a sweet to take on the go (the dulce de leche were my favourite), a tasty fruit snack or freshly baked cake in between meals. A jar of sweets on the bar. Everyone was equally friendly, engaged, attentive and helpful.
The instruction I was always given as a tour guide was: ‘Exceed your guests’ expectations’. Nicky Amazone Lodge certainly does that!
The programme was very varied and beautifully balanced. The walking excursions starting from the lodge itself are also very diverse. And in the dark, it’s a completely different experience to during the day. What a special world unfolds then! It was also great that the activities unfolded step by step and we didn’t know everything in advance. That makes it extra exciting and allows for a more flexible programme. It was also great fun to cook together with the local community. From farm to fork. We really enjoyed buying homemade souvenirs directly from them; it made the experience very personal.
We saw so many extraordinary animals and plants. Caimans, anacondas, river dolphins, giant otters, (moving!) sloths, many species of monkeys, which were very active. Countless different, colourful and extraordinary birds, including many hoatzins, my favourites. We were also very lucky. When a harpy eagle was perched above the river right next to us, our guide Anshy nearly fell out of the boat – she hadn’t seen one in ages, and so close up! We saw fresh jaguar paw prints.
And how we marvelled at nature as a whole – its cohesion, its interplay, its system. It’s impossible not to feel immense admiration and respect for it. It makes you feel insignificant as a human being. It makes you feel part of that nature (rather than standing outside it). Add to that the total sense of relaxation. Far away from the stresses of everyday life. Life can be like this too!
Are you still unsure whether to choose Nicky Amazone Lodge? Don’t hesitate any longer, just go! It will change your way of looking at things forever. It will enrich your life!
Written by Selma Renting, (2026)
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