Luxury in the Amazon:
A Journey to Remember
After a grueling thirteen-hour journey by bus and boat, me and six other eager explorers arrived at Nicky Amazon Lodge. Tucked away in the heart of the jungle, this well-maintained sanctuary greets us with the charm of thatched-roof cabins, each one a cozy oasis with comfy beds and great hot showers. Three sumptuous meals a day, along with unlimited tea, coffee, and fresh drinking water, transform our stay into a luxurious retreat in the wild. Here, in the Cuyabeno Nature Reserve, spanning across Ecuador’s northeastern corner and straddling the equator, luxury meets wilderness in an extraordinary way.
Stretching over an impressive 600,000 hectares of tropical rainforest, this reserve is not just home for countless animal and plant species but as well my home for the next four days. The lodge, once a yucca plantation, is a living testament to the vibrant life that thrives here. Tayras dart playfully through the garden, golden-handed tamarins swing gracefully from tree to tree, and evenings are enchanted by the occasional visit from curious frogs.
Perched on the banks of the Cuyabeno River, the lodge offers a front-row seat to the rainforest’s most captivating spectacles. As we glide along the river, our eyes feast upon a dazzling array of birds—toucans with their colorful beaks, kingfishers with their iridescent plumage, parrots flaunting their vibrant feathers, and majestic tiger herons. High above, capuchin and squirrel monkeys jump aroung, while two-toed sloths hang lazily from the branches. Snakes and turtles bask on overhanging branches, and caimans stealthily patrol the riverbank. Above all, the majestic blue morpho butterflies dance gracefully across the water’s surface.
The night walks are a thrilling highlight. As darkness falls, the jungle comes even more alive. Frogs, scorpions, grasshoppers, beetles, and an array of spiders – including the poisonous banana spider and the hairy tarantula – reveal themselves right behind our bungalows. We even witness the dramatic scene of a golden huntsman spider capturing and devouring an unsuspecting lizard. The jungle’s raw, untamed nature is both exhilarating and humbling, reminding us of the delicate balance of life here.
Each day is a new adventure, guided by our passionated guides Evi and Anshy. Their deep knowledge and keen observations bring the rainforest to life, unraveling its secrets with every step. Evi’s reminders to breathe deeply and connect with Pacha Mama—the spirit of the Earth—ground us in the moment and making us forget the world beyond the jungle. Here, the lack of internet is a blessing rather than a loss.
With rubber boots, headlamps, and a generous coating of mosquito spray, our days begin at 6 a.m. The schedule is packed with boat trips along the river and to Laguna Grande, where we have the chance to see pink dolphins. We trek through the muddy, lush jungle, climb observation platforms to marvel at the wildlife and breathtaking sunsets, and immerse ourselves in the vibrant energy of the rainforest.
A visit to one of the reserve’s indigenous communities, the Sionas, is a profound experience. In their stilt houses, this small community of about forty people welcomes us warmly. The women invite us into their world, guiding us through the process of making traditional yucca bread—a staple of the Amazonian diet. We harvest, peel, and grate the roots, press out the juice, and bake the mixture over an open fire in a clay pan. The bread itself is modest in flavor, but paired with a fiery chili sauce, it’s a culinary revelation. Meeting Aurora, the 97-year-old community leader, is a highlight. Her advice for a long, healthy life: “No alcohol, no smoking, no sugar”. That sounds simple, yet it’s a profound testament to the simplicity and resilience of life here. The local diet, rich in yucca, fruits, fish, and insects, combined with jungle-sourced medicine, seems to work wonders, as Aurora’s husband is a remarkable 105 years old.
Returning to the lodge each evening, I savor the luxury of fine dining and the comfort of our pristine accommodations. Remembering the taste of the passion fruit cheesecake alone makes my mouth water.
Sitting on the steps of the veranda, with my dirty rubber boots reflecting the day’s adventures, I gaze out at the boundless starry sky, enveloped by seven million square kilometers of dense rainforest. The chorus of the jungle at night makes me acutely aware of the forest’s vitality. I am truly immersed in the heart of the Amazon. I’m falling in love with this wild paradise, and I urge you to come, explore, and experience this enchanting world for yourself as well.
Written by Magdalena Dera (37), solo traveler from Germany.
